Eyeshadow
From Domicella's wikiStyle
Eye shadow is a cosmetic cream or powder in one of various colors that is applied to the eyelids to accent the eyes.[1]
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Choosing the Eye Shadow Color
Some believe choosing a color depends on what look you are trying to achieve, irrespective of eye color or skin tone. For example, for all complexions and eye colors, you will need black eye shadow for a “smoky eyes” look. On the other extreme, using white or a very pale color eye shadow can be effective when striving for the “bedroom eyes” look: a pale lid and brow bone with a sloping crease and upturned outer eye lashes to enhance the sleepy look effect.[2]
Others believe that choosing the “right” eye shadow color should take into account your eye color and skin tone,[3] and even your hair color.[4] For example, this school of thought generally dissuades matching your eye color with your eye shadow color because it could look “washed out”.[4] This perspective generally advocates using shades of brown when in doubt about exact colors to use. "Soft brown shadow can add just enough color to enhance the eyes when placed on the lids and along the lower lashes."[5] After applying brown shadow, try lining the eyes' inner rims with beige pencil eyeliner.[5]
Some more color suggestions include:
- Soft browns and tans with sandy or pink undertones for blue eyes
- Khaki and brown shades with yellow undertones for green eyes
- Accent dark brown and black eyes with brown and charcoal shadows.
- For day, a slightly shimmery taupe shadow works with every skin tone and never looks overdone. Dust it over your lids from lashes to crease.
- For evening, try a chestnut shadow if your eyes are green; a gray shade works with blue eyes; and any color that is paler than brown eyes flatter them.
Choosing the Eye Shadow Texture
This section exclusively references Kevin Aucoin’s Making Faces.[7]
- Creamy – Creme shadows can help bring the eyes forward while retaining a skin like texture that (depending on color) can look from “approachable” all the way to “edgy.”
- Glossy – Literally a glossy or “shiny” look that requires more maintenance than the other textures. You can use petroleum jelly to achieve the glossy look, but it may over time travel down into the crease. Alternatively, consider loose powder shimmer shadows with high shine.
- Matte – Effectuates a degree of shine that is more obvious than either natural or soft textures, but less than glossy or creamy textures. Consider a light pre-foundation powder before applying the eye shadow.
- Metallic – Metallic shadows can have a shimmery or precious metal effect. Metallic textures reflect light so they can easily work as highlighters.
- Natural – Uses a soft, liquid, brown colored eye shadow to enhance the natural eye shape.
Eyeshadow Application
- If the lids are oily, eye shadow won’t stick. Before applying any color, prep the lids with foundation, then press a velvet puff with translucent powder on top. And consider the shade you use: Pale matte ones are the least likely to crease or to accentuate lines.[8]
- If possible, you should remove contact lenses before working on the eye area and put them back in when you’re done.[9]
- Soften and blend any eye shadow shape you create (with a sponge-tip applicator, eye shadow brush, or powder brush) to make it look more natural and less hard.[9]
- When applying eye shadow to the crease of the eye, keep your eyes open. Besides being able to see the shape you’re creating, the color will go into (and slightly above) the crease.[7]
- When using color products, try using less at first and then increase layer by layer, until you get the exact color depth and shape you want.[2]
- Tips on blending: use three different colors: The base, usually a very light taupe, a highlighter for the crease and a main color for the lid. Start light then go darker. Brush the base color, apply the lid color and then apply the highlighter. Also, don't be too heavy-handed or you'll have to start over.[10]
- Consider brightening eyes with a dot of pale gold cream shadow at the inner corners. It makes the eyes look wide open and beautiful in the light.[8]
References
- ↑ http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/eyeshadow
- ↑ 2.0 2.1 Aucoin, Kevyn. “Making Faces” pg. 33
- ↑ 3.0 3.1 http://www.ehow.com/how_3301_choose-eye-shadow.html
- ↑ 4.0 4.1 <http://www.eye-make-up-tips.com/eye-cosmetics/eyeshadow/choosing-eye-shadow-color.aspx>
- ↑ 5.0 5.1 "Top 10 Things You Need for Spring." Allure. December 2008: page 170.
- ↑ "Master Class" Allure. October 2009: page 79.
- ↑ 7.0 7.1 Aucoin, Kevyn. “Making Faces” pg. 35
- ↑ 8.0 8.1 Allure. “Best Makeup Tips. Ever.” Pg 103. August 2008.
- ↑ 9.0 9.1 Aucoin, Kevyn. “Making Faces” pg. 30
- ↑ http://beauty.about.com/od/eyeshadow/qt/eyeshad1.htm
