Wool
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Wool is an animal fiber forming the protective covering, or fleece, of sheep or of other hairy mammals, such as goats and camels. [1] There are very few people that are allergic to wool. Research has demonstrated, that most fibers greater than 30 microns in diameter are structurally rigid enough that when they come in contact with your skin, they do not bend – and cause a “poking” of the skin. The sensory receptors in your skin feel this poking and elicit a response. In some cases, this response is similar an allergic reaction on the skin where a redness or “rash” occurs. Some people have more sensitive skin than others and react more. Wools garments designed to be worn next to the skin do not contain more than 5% of the wool fibers greater than 30 micron. The number of fiber ends exposed and touching the skin are low enough that the skin does not feel the poking sensation.[2]
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Types
There are many different types of wool. The following list describes some of the more popular types for apparel:
Super 100’s
Super 100’s grade wool is worsted wool that must be less than 18.5 microns in thickness. This grade of wool is found in suits and there are multiple grades. For example, there are 110’s, 120’s, 130’s, 140’s, 150’s, and all the way up to 200’s. The higher the grade, the thinner the wool used and the more amount of fabric is used per square inch.
The higher the grade also means it is more expensive than lower grades, all else being equal, since it becomes increasingly difficult to attain finer and finer wool.
Although the higher grade wools are more expensive, they become increasingly less resistant to wrinkles and also compromise durability. This is due to the fineness of the fabric. Also, they become harder to fix or “re-weave.” [3]
Season Appropriateness
Wool suits can be worn all year. Wool fibers have crimps or curls that create pockets and gives the wool a spongy feel and creates insulation for the wearer. Furthermore, wool is a “breathable” fabric and absorbs up to 30% of its weight in moisture making it appropriate for warmer climates as well.[4]
Warmer weather climates (as well as people who tend to perspire more) would benefit from a plain or “tropical” weave, which is one yarn overlapping or alternately weaving under the adjacent yarn in grid-like fashion. Hence, plain weave apparel have less fabric than twill weaves. [3]
Care
Dry cleaning is not a solution for every stain or blemish that makes an appearance on your garments. Dry cleaning actually shortens the life of clothing, as it tends to weaken fibers with harmful long-term effects. Many stains can actually be addressed using proven remedies that range from water and soap to dry cleaning products. Some specifics will be detailed in this section. [5]
Wools need their space. Give them a 24-hour cooling off period after wear and separate them when you hang them in your closet. On business trips, you can hang them in a steamy bathroom and they will regain their shape and lose their creases.
A brush or damp cloth will serve to keep your wool garments clean, and an annual trip to the cleaners will take care of the rest. When touching up wool garments with an iron, always use steam, as wool does not respond well to a dry iron. Rather than sliding the iron across the garment, use an up and down motion to obtain a freshly pressed look without damage to the fabric.[6]
For lengthy storage Woolen clothing should go into a cedar trunk or chest that is sealed and lined with a well-laundered white sheet. Other clothing can be stored in lightweight plastic boxes that have vents and are waterproof. Ideally, an acid-free tissue paper should be placed between folded items to preserve their good looks.[5]
Animal Welfare
When done in the proper season with professional shearers, shearing should not hurt the animal.
Domestic sheep with wool require annual harvesting called shearing. The wool fiber is a hardened protein, and does not contain any sensory structures. It is similar in chemical composition to human hair and fingernails. Therefore, the sheep does not “feel” anything when the wool is sheared, similar to when humans have their hair cut or a manicure.
Without shearing, the animal may potentially suffer due to excessive wool growth. Too much wool, or lack of shearing, may result in manure or feces accumulating on the wool and encourage fly egg development. The resulting fly larvae can cause serious harm to the animal and eventually death through infection. Also, too much wool and the extra wool weight caused by lack of shearing can result in heat exhaustion or heat stroke during hot weather conditions.
There is scientific evidence that shows sheep with 1 inch of wool are more comfortable during hot periods, compared to sheep with less wool, as the wool fiber dissipates heat from the animal’s body more rapidly. Therefore, most sheep producers time their annual shearing to correspond with seasonal climate changes. Shearing generally takes place in the spring when the temperature is warmer. This allows the sheep to have a full wool coat during the winter. And they have adequate wool growth to keep the animal cool and avoid sunburned sheep in the summer.[2]
References
- ↑ http://www.britannica.com/eb/article-9077439/wool
- ↑ 2.0 2.1 http://www.sheepusa.org/index.phtml?page=site/text&nav_id=ac06a33dbe1965c741a7435cbe4e47c1
- ↑ 3.0 3.1 http://suityourself.com/super_100s_120s_150s_160s_180s_200s_220s_wool.asp
- ↑ http://www.fabrics.net/wool.asp
- ↑ 5.0 5.1 http://www.mytailor.com/WardrobeCare.aspx
- ↑ http://www.mytailor.com/fabricscare.aspx
